Double weave = double++ time

My toughest assignment yet is done!!

double weave

double weave

You first saw a glimpse of it here (right at the bottom of the post) at the beginning of the month. Here it is today, not quite in all its glory since I can’t get the colour right despite playing with white balance in the camera, colour levels in gimp, etc. In life it is richer and brighter.  It is soft to the touch – and did I mention done?

2/20s superfine wool from tutor Liz, set at 20epi each layer (for a nice light drape with the double layers – 24 epi would be more usual).

fine wool + 2 layers = x hours weaving, where x is a BIG number.

Double weave on 4 shafts gave two layers of cloth and the flexibility to choose which layer showed on top. This sample was on 8 shafts. Still two layers of cloth, but threaded to give two blocks, so part layers could be brought to the top.

Dark layer – purple through blue and back to purple – block A on shafts 1 and 2, block B on shafts 3 and 4. Lifting (1 + 3) then (2 + 4) gives a purple/blue layer of plain weave.

Light layer – red through oranges to yellow – block A on shafts 5 and 6, block B on shafts 7 and 8. Lifting (5 + 7) then (6 + eight ) gives a red/orange layer of plain weave.

I can have:

block A red on top plus block B red on top (= red layer on top)
block A purple on top plus block B purple on top (=purple layer on top)
block A red and block B purple
block A purple and block B red

Weaving is in sets:
a pick of purple (lift 1+3)
a pick of red (lift 5+7)
a pick of purple (2+4)
a pick of red (6+8 )

But each set I have to decide which colour of each block I want on top. To keep a layer of colour on top, I have to lift it up out of the way when I weave the other colour. For example, if I want block A red and block B purple, then when I weave purple I have to lift Block A red (5+6) out of the way, and when I weave red I have to lift block B purple (3+4) out of the way, giving:
a pick of purple lift (1+3)+(5+6)
a pick of red (5+7)+(3+4)
a pick of purple (2+4)+(5+6)
a pick of red (6+8)+(3+4)

It all sounds complex (did I mention extra time in the weaving?), but I did get into a rhythm of sorts.

There’s extra visual interest because the layers overlap in the middle, but the purple layer extended out to the left, so that always shows, and the red extended out to the right and always shows there. The extra challenge is that you can’t always see the selvedges in the overlapped part.

Do I like it?? Hmm. I love the colours. I was thinking dancing flames when I chose them, when weaving I saw sunsets, parrots, campfires and glowing coals… The patterning is busy. I wanted to experiment with lots of combinations and patterns in which blocks I used. So there are checks and windows of colour and bits that look like keys and so much more happening. Bright colour + busy patterning = visually challenging. It’s a sampler more than a scarf. Still, I’ll definitely wear it as a scarf when cooler weather returns.

Naturally this just scratches the surface of double weave. Each week in class Liz gave us new approaches to the theory, brought in samples, gave slide shows… Weaving reminds me of fractals (as a non-mathematician) – each time you go to a new area there is more detail, more variation, more possibilities, more to learn.

So, what’s next? The double weave was with the second year class. We’re still working through first year theory as well, and in the time I’ve been doing the double weave Liz has taken us through theory on 4 shaft undulating twills, Ms and Os and last week started overshot. I’m going to jump into overshot, and come back to the others during the summer break.

8 Responses to “Double weave = double++ time”

  1. 1 Trapunto December 2, 2008 at 6:34 am

    Oh my goodness! Fit for an Aztec princess! I hate to say the A-word, but you are clearly an artist. Your blog is a treat.

  2. 2 Peg in South Carolina December 3, 2008 at 12:44 am

    I’m with Trapunto here. But I wanted to add is that I did not realize what you could do with double weave on just 4 shafts!

  3. 3 Susan December 11, 2008 at 9:35 am

    Hi there… sorry, but I’ve tagged you with a meme. Please visit my page to see what it’s about.


  1. 1 Down with a bump « Fibres of Being Trackback on February 22, 2009 at 6:28 pm
  2. 2 Commitment problems « Fibres of Being Trackback on March 28, 2009 at 7:46 pm
  3. 3 Deflected doubleweave scarf « Fibres of Being Trackback on October 25, 2009 at 4:05 pm
  4. 4 Backed Fabrics « Fibres of Being Trackback on February 20, 2010 at 8:54 pm
  5. 5 Possibilities « Fibres of Being Trackback on December 31, 2010 at 1:54 pm

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November 2008

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